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This authentic French bistro is a
much-needed addition to the city’s dining scene. Dark wood
walls, a granite bar, long windows and art deco-style chandelier
and wall sconces help capture the warmth and simplicity of bistro
culture. The floors are bare dark wood planks, wooden tables are
without tablecloths and the servers are dressed in traditional
white and black. We’re in Europe, yes. I haven’t had
French onion soup in years, and I am wondering why it’s
been so long. Here, it is rich and filling, almost enough to be
a meal by itself. House made rabbit pâté arrives
with the required little sour cornichons and grainy mustard. The
frisée and lardon salad is updated with the addition of
fava bean and a poached egg. Steak frites sees the meat done exactly
as requested and nestled on top of thin frites that are crisp
and almost sweet. The special was lamb stuffed with lamb sausage:
tender, delicately flavoured and generous. Mousse au chocolat
was the only disappointment, a bit thick and heavy for my tastes.
This is an attractive restaurant serving very fine food at reasonable
prices. Wines are also well-priced, about double LCBO prices,
but I would bypass the French house wine, La Vieille Ferme, in
favour of the Henry of Pelham Baco Noir. I found the restaurant
to be noisy — so many hard surfaces that don’t absorb
sound — but otherwise the diners were obviously enjoying
being there.

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