....::::: Bistro Parisien :::::....

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Hamilton Magazine Review December 2006
(pdf version as originally published)

 

This authentic French bistro is a much-needed addition to the city’s dining scene. Dark wood walls, a granite bar, long windows and art deco-style chandelier and wall sconces help capture the warmth and simplicity of bistro culture. The floors are bare dark wood planks, wooden tables are without tablecloths and the servers are dressed in traditional white and black. We’re in Europe, yes. I haven’t had French onion soup in years, and I am wondering why it’s been so long. Here, it is rich and filling, almost enough to be a meal by itself. House made rabbit pâté arrives with the required little sour cornichons and grainy mustard. The frisée and lardon salad is updated with the addition of fava bean and a poached egg. Steak frites sees the meat done exactly as requested and nestled on top of thin frites that are crisp and almost sweet. The special was lamb stuffed with lamb sausage: tender, delicately flavoured and generous. Mousse au chocolat was the only disappointment, a bit thick and heavy for my tastes. This is an attractive restaurant serving very fine food at reasonable prices. Wines are also well-priced, about double LCBO prices, but I would bypass the French house wine, La Vieille Ferme, in favour of the Henry of Pelham Baco Noir. I found the restaurant to be noisy — so many hard surfaces that don’t absorb sound — but otherwise the diners were obviously enjoying being there.


Bistro Parisien • 905 546 0003 • 150 James Street South • Hamilton, Ontario CA
bistroparisien@bellnet.ca